In a candid and wide-ranging conversation with Col Ashwani Sharma, Editor, South Asia Defence & Strategic Review (defstrat), Mr. Rohit Aggarwal, the newly appointed CEO of Lenzing AG, shares insights into his global leadership journey, Lenzing’s innovation-driven sustainability mission, and the evolving role of textiles in addressing climate change. As the first Indian to lead the Austrian fibre giant, Mr. Aggarwal reflects on India’s potential to emerge as a global hub for sustainable textile manufacturing, provided regulatory frameworks align with international standards.

Defstrat: Mr. Aggarwal, congratulations on your appointment as CEO of Lenzing AG. As an Indian professional now leading a major European multinational, what does this role mean to you personally and professionally?

Rohit Aggarwal: Thank you. It is a tremendous honour and responsibility. I see it not only as a personal milestone but as a symbol of the increasingly global and inclusive leadership landscape we are now part of. My journey from India to senior roles across Asia, Europe, and the Americas—has instilled in me a deep appreciation of diverse cultures and markets. At Lenzing, I’m proud to lead an organization that embodies sustainable innovation and that shares my belief in aligning growth with environmental stewardship. I bring with me a deep-rooted respect for Indian values – resilience, adaptability, and entrepreneurship which continue to guide my leadership.

Defstrat: Lenzing has been recognized globally for sustainability. What role does innovation play in this strategy under your leadership?

Rohit Aggarwal: Innovation is at the very heart of how we approach sustainability. Our mission goes beyond producing high-quality specialty fibers—we are reimagining how textiles are made and consumed. Under our “Naturally Positive” strategy, we’ve been scaling biodegradable, renewable fibers like TENCEL™, LENZING™ ECOVERO™, and VEOCEL™, and integrating digital traceability tools across our value chain. Our partnership with TreeToTextile to develop low-impact cellulose fibers, and the issuance of USD 650 million in Green Notes, are examples of how innovation and sustainability can be mutually reinforcing. I believe that through innovation, we can solve some of the greatest challenges facing our planet—and the textile industry.

Defstrat: You’ve spoken about the “cellulosic gap” in the global textile market. What implications does that have for India and other emerging economies?

Rohit Aggarwal: The global population is growing and so is the demand for textiles. However, natural cotton faces production limitations due to land use, water needs, and climate vulnerabilities. Synthetic fibers, though widely used, face scrutiny due to their fossil origin and pollution impact. This is where regenerated cellulose fibers like those made by Lenzing—come in. They are plant-based, biodegradable, and offer the same comfort and breathability as cotton, if not more.

For India, this presents a massive opportunity. As a country with a rich textile heritage and a growing middle class, India can leapfrog into sustainable textile manufacturing. But for that, we need open, innovation-friendly environments where global standards and domestic regulations align.

Defstrat: Speaking of which, how have India’s recent Quality Control Orders (QCOs) affected your operations? Some observers consider them non-tariff barriers.

Rohit Aggarwal: We respect India’s sovereign right to regulate its markets and ensure consumer protection. That said, any regulatory mechanism must be predictable, transparent, and harmonized with global standards to avoid becoming inadvertently restrictive. For example, it is difficult for Lenzing to serve Indian customers from our production sites in Thailand and Indonesia—despite those plants meeting all international standards.

This has unfortunately constrained our ability to trade and invest further in India. We have obtained certifications for our European sites, and we continue engaging with Indian authorities constructively, hoping to expedite the process. Let me emphasize, we are not seeking special treatment, only a level playing field. The goal must be to enhance access to high-quality, sustainable fibers, which benefit the entire value chain from weavers to exporters.

Defstrat: Do you see signs of improvement in India’s regulatory environment in this context?

Rohit Aggarwal: I remain optimistic. India is a key market and a natural partner in the global textile value chain. Encouragingly, recent diplomatic and business engagements like the recent talks between Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi and USA vice president J.D. Vance signal a renewed commitment to aligning economic policy with global integration.

These dialogues have emphasized not only trade and investment but also the importance of addressing non-tariff barriers that restrict industrial collaboration. I believe the future lies in mutual recognition of standards, transparent certification processes, and proactive industry-government dialogue.

Defstrat: Lenzing has had a presence in India for over two decades. What is your vision for future growth in the Indian market?

Rohit Aggarwal: India remains a strategic priority for us. Our fibers are already used in a variety of Indian textiles from sarees to activewear, and we’ve tailored innovations to suit local consumer preferences. However, as I mentioned, the ability to freely trade is a prerequisite to future investment.

We would like to do more—expand production partnerships, set up R&D collaborations, and eventually look at manufacturing. But the regulatory environment must allow us to serve customers without artificial constraints. Once we can operate freely, I’m confident Lenzing’s long-term investment case for India becomes very strong again.

Defstrat: What has shaped your leadership style, especially when navigating global complexity and transformation?

Rohit Aggarwal: I lead with purpose, empowerment, and adaptability. My experience in transforming businesses—from Huntsman to Archroma and now Lenzing—taught me that people drive change.

I focus on building cultures of excellence, mentoring high-performance teams, and aligning strategy with shared values. Diversity and inclusion are central to this.

Leadership today is about future-proofing organisations:, staying ahead of trends, listening to stakeholders, and having the courage to challenge norms. We are operating in a world shaped by climate risks, digital shifts, and consumer consciousness—our leadership must reflect that.

Defstrat: You’ve been called a thought leader on sustainability. What broader role do you think the textile industry must play in addressing climate change?

Rohit Aggarwal: The textile industry is one of the largest polluters, but also one of the most impactful change-makers. We need to reimagine textiles from a linear to a circular economy. This means reducing virgin resource use, investing in recycling infrastructure, and embracing biodegradable solutions.

At Lenzing, we are committed to transparent climate action. Our EcoVadis Platinum Rating, traceable fiber identification system, and continuous improvement in carbon intensity reflect that. But this must be a collective effort, brands, governments, consumers, and producers must work together. As I often say, sustainability is not a trend, it is a responsibility.

Defstrat: Any final message for South Asian policymakers and entrepreneurs?

Rohit Aggarwal: South Asia, with its rich textile tradition, entrepreneurial spirit, and young workforce, is uniquely positioned to lead the next chapter of sustainable manufacturing. To realize this, I urge policymakers to create environments that welcome innovation, recognize global certifications, and remove unnecessary trade bottlenecks.

At Lenzing, we’re ready to be a partner in this journey. Let’s work together to build an ecosystem that creates value not just economically, but ecologically and socially as well. That, to me, is the future of textiles, and of leadership.